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A Brief History: 100 Years Of Denim

Writer's picture: Phoebe ScottPhoebe Scott

Updated: May 18, 2021

1800- 1920: Jeans were worn mainly because of their practicality and durability, not because they were deemed as stylish. They were mainly popular among labour workers like miners, who needed their workwear to be sturdy and reliable. Because of the need for long lasting, practical workwear, businessmen like Levi Strauss decided to capitalise on this gap in the market with now iconic denim brand Levi’s.

1930-1940: It wasn’t until the 1930’s when jeans and denim became mainstream and popular. Before denim was recognised and associated with workers and cowboys, but with the rise of the Hollywood scene and westerns jeans became popular. The 1930’s was also the year the world was introduced to ‘Lady Levi’s’. Adapted from the men’s ‘501 jeans’, at this point of time these jeans were aimed at women working on farmland, agriculture or ranches.

1950: In the very early 1950s, jeans were just starting to become more of a fashion trend thanks to actors like Marlon Brando and James Dean wearing them on a pretty regular basis. After WW2, teenage culture was on the rise after been suppressed during the war. Jeans became synonymous with the culture of the teenager, and youth rebellion. In 1955, the rebellious heart throb James Dean starred in ‘Rebel Without a Cause’ wearing a pair of jeans. Jeans were worn as a sign of youth rebellion and were a firm wardrobe staple for the masses. Light washed, cuffed and boxy fit jeans paired with converse and a leather jacket was the go-to rebellious teen look.

1960: The 1960’s took a more painterly approach denim. With the rise and boom and bohemian and hippy culture in most parts of the world, the free-spirit look created a relaxed, cool look that swept through the nation. The fit of the denim transformed from straight and boxy to fitted, flared and embellished.

The mid-1960s were all about the bootcut jeans. Celebrities like Sonny and Cher, Twiggy, Mick Jagger, and Jimi Hendrix all helped in making it a stylish staple in their wardrobes.

1970: The decade of disco made everything do to another level of extra. By the 1970s, the bootcut had a groovy makeover turning into flares. These radical and extreme flares were worn all day and all night in combination with platforms shoes on the disco dance floor. The flares were a popular costume for the glam rock scene who took full advantage of this outrageous style. Though the seventies saw America in all its glitz and glamour, it was a whole different board game in the UK with the rise of punk culture. Similarly, to the 1950’s rebellious teenager, the Punk was a more matured version. With the help of the Ramone’s and their 1979 self-titled album cover, the Levi’s slim fitting 505 jeans rose in popularity.

1980: Maximalism was at its height in the eighties, with a boom in the economy excess and materialism was everything. It was during this decade that designers started taking denim more seriously and it began appearing in catwalks. We were introduced to new cuts, colours and styles when it came to denim, most noticeably acid washed denim. Brands like ‘Jordache jeans’ rose to the height of popularity with their stiff-looking fabric and embroidered back pockets. This was also the period where denim was deemed as sexy. With help from their iconic yet very controversial ad staring a very young Brooke Shields, the then-14-year-old model infamously said, "You know what comes between me and my Calvin’s? Nothing." It wasn't the first-time jeans had sex appeal, but it was definitely a big moment. 

1990: From the extreme excess of the 1980’s to the 1990’s minimal and relaxation, the shift in the denim fashion trends couldn’t be more drastic. Music culture was a massive influence of how people dressed in the nineties, from the growth of hip-hop (which came the baggy jeans and sagging denim fashion phase) to the rise of grunge (which came with ripped up and relaxed denim).

2000: The early 2000s were a very weird time for jeans, where the trends got more and more intense with each passing year. It started with embellished jeans, which included lots of bling, then on to lace up jeans. By this point in history, low-rise jeans were so popular that many forgot what high-waisted even meant, this then led to the trend whereby your jeans were so low that your underwear was shown. It was only a matter of time before jeans decreased in popularity after having an epic few years, and around 2009, jeggings took their place. They were still technically jeans, but they were so stretchy that they could almost feel like leggings.

2010-now: Our current style consists of every imaginable style of denim. Nowadays, we see embellished, ripped high rise jeans, bleached jeans, saggy jeans, flare jeans, skinny jeans, jean skirts, overalls, jean miniskirts and much more. Though due to environmental concerns and a rise in vintage trends, second hand and vintage denim as defiantly been a popular way for people to source their denim nowadays. Denim is the staple in most wardrobes, and it is here to stay.

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